In Creative Loafing, dining editor and restaurant critic Besha Rodell reviews Cardamom Hill, the new brick-and-mortar restaurant from Spice Route Supper Club chef Asha Gomez. In terms of Indian food's scope in Atlanta, Rodell says that Gomez "moves the goalposts significantly" with her fine-dining treatment of Kerala-specific cuisine. She goes on to highlight dishes like the pork vindaloo appetizer, Kerala roast duck, and spicy fish stew, but laments that the restaurant, with a bar program designed by Brian Stanger, hasn't received its liquor license yet. Overall, though, Rodell notes that:
"Even without the booze, and even beyond its pioneer status as the purveyor of our city's first upscale Indian food, Cardamom Hill offers thoughtful, soulful, generous cooking, and adds to Atlanta's too small list of restaurants that feel intensely personal. Cardamom Hill is obviously a labor of love, and it's an emotion that comes through quite clearly on the plate."
John Kessler, lead dining critic for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, reviews Alma Cocina, awarding it three stars. He calls the newest restaurant from Fifth Group an "inviting respite" and enjoys modern Mexican dishes like corvina sea bass with yellow mole, citrus-avocado salad and chayote squash, and flat iron steak with avocado-arugula salad, chile-goat cheese potato gratin and adobo. Kessler calls the tamale the best he's tried in Atlanta and appreciates the well-made salsas, chips, and Amatitán margarita. He closes by praising the service, particularly given the convention atmosphere:
"I must note and praise the Fifth Group service style. As at the other restaurants, these folks exhibit a special kind of agency. They show you their personalities and take ownership of your experience, helping you decide what and how to order. This helps you form more of a personal bond with the restaurant—even if it's in a downtown office tower and filled with conventioneers."
Wrapping things up at the AJC, Bob Townsend takes a First Look at Dos Amigos Cantina in Symrna and Gene Lee searches for "Dollar tacos around the city." At Creative Loafing, Brad Kaplan grabs Cheap Eats at Red Pepper Taqueria and Cliff Bostock revisits King & I.
It was a slow week for the Atlanta blogosphere, but ATL Food Snob visited Mood Lounge and also posted a good recap of a recent supper club, chef Hopeton Hibbert's Flavor Excursions.