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Are Chefs Focusing on the Wrong Thing?

eaterpwtrsmal.jpgOver at the AJC, John Kessler muses over the multi-course, wine-paired, one-off dinners chefs prepare on special occasions. He gets that the dinners are fun to create and attend, but he worries that they take away from restaurants' standing menus and prohibit diners who stop in for regular meals from getting the "full measure" of a place. Customers want the celeb chef experience at well-know eateries on Tuesday nights too, not just at pop-up or theme dinners, says Kessler, and, as far as writing about these evenings goes, one commenter points out, "What good is reviewing a meal that no one else will get a chance to taste?" [AJC]