After two visits, the Atlanta Journal-Constitution's John Kessler looks at Sobban, the new "Korean-Southern diner" from Jiyeon Lee and Cody Taylor of Heirloom Market BBQ. With an overall positive early impression of the Clairmont Road restaurant, Kessler notes that Atlanta— thanks to the popularity of Korean food in the Northern suburbs— is "ripe for a Western-style restaurant like this, which assumes a certain level of familiarity and comfort with Korean flavors on the part of the customer, both in terms of its chile heat and its twangy funk of fermented vegetables." He recommends the kimchi-miso kale, chicken kalguksu, pork belly bossam, tofu bibimbap, and shaved ice desserts called bingsu. Kessler also praises the "esoteric" beverage menu of the 30-some seat Decatur space.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: The Blissful Glutton recommends the meatball panini at Caffe Gio made on H&F Bread Co. collaboration bread; Kessler talks about The General Muir's fried chicken; Eat It, Atlanta heads to Steak Night at Paper Plane; and Creative Loafing revisits Cafe Lapin, home to "furry rodents and ladies who lunch."
· All Week in Reviews Coverage [-EATL-]