This month, Atlanta Magazine's Bill Addison reviews Emory Village's Ink & Elm, giving props to design firm AI3 and noting that though the locally sourced food "falls more into today's hazy definition of New American," he likes where chef Stephen Sharp is heading most of the time, recommending the salads, old-school dishes over experimental ones, and the tavern menu's "casual, zippy small plates." Nods also go to pastry chef Elodie Westover and barista Jordan Chambers.
Behind the paywall at the AJC, Jenny Turknett also reviews Ink & Elm. She gives the tavern one star and the dining room two stars, saying, "While the restaurant broadens its market appeal by offering separate experiences, a little more attention to each would help them achieve their potential. For now, I'm going with Elm [the dining room]." Turknett recommends the brick-cooked chicken and Georgia apple salad in the dining room and the ricotta gnocchi with braised beef cheeks, St. Louis pork ribs, and burger in the tavern.
Creative Loafing's Jennifer Zyman takes a first look at Sobban, the new "Korean-Southern diner" from Jiyeon Lee and Cody Taylor of Heirloom Market BBQ. Calling it "novel and ballsy," Zyman recs the appetizers and select mains and notes that the "kitchen struggles with the balance of sweet and fat," except when it comes to their Korean fried chicken wings. The piece ends: "Despite the enthusiastic crowds, the food is average with promises of greatness. Let's hope the greatness comes soon and that this endeavor isn't the duo's sophomoric slump."
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: The AJC's Jenny Turknett revisits the Sun Dial and gives it one star. Also at the AJC, John Kessler discovers the Good Food Truck Soup Cart at the Goat Farm and talks pizza at Varasano's at the airport and Slice & Pint. Creative Loafing's Cliff Bostock revisits Ann's Snack Bar and Atlanta Restaurant Blog tries 1Kept.
· All Week in Reviews [-EATL-]