Behind a paywall, the Atlanta Journal-Constitution's Jon Watson takes on La Tagliatella. Watson's experiences at the Emory Point location, he says, "taught [him] another valuable lesson about globalization: America does not have a monopoly on exporting mass-marketed mediocrity." He awards the restaurant zero stars, saying:
Unfortunately, even when the dishes at La Tagliatella are at their best, they still barely surpass the point of mediocrity and prove beyond frustrating when at their worst. The thin veal slices in my too-dry Albese ($19) arrived tough and grey, save for the overly-browned and crisped, curled edges. I was too busy chewing through the old-bubblegum consistency of gnocchi with Tartufo e Funghi sauce ($17.50) to give the creamy mushroom and truffle sauce the attention it deserved. And it seemed the kitchen used up all of the salt making the throat-parching Al Salame risotto ($16) before stacking up the bland tomato, mozzarella and under-cooked sautéed eggplant in the Insalata Torre Di Pisa salad ($11.50).
In AmRest's quest to bring La Tagliatella to the world, I believe they will prove most successful in the under-served international markets. I have to imagine their new location in Bangalore competes with far fewer generic Italian family-style restaurants than here in the states.
For Creative Loafing, Cliff Bostock looks at the recently opened BoccaLupo. He goes through the antipasti, pasta, and desserts in detail and ends like this:
I haven't found anything to seriously complain about at BoccaLupo. Prices are moderate, so don't tell me you can save a lot by insulting your mouth at Olive Garden. You'll spend $13 to $19 for pastas and the "not noodles." Antipasti are all $12 and less and big enough for two. Service is great. I do look forward to seeing Logue dot the menu with some new inventions.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Brad Kaplan gives Joli Kobe a fresh look for Creative LoafingAtlanta Restaurant Blog reviews Sushi Hoki Atlanta on Cobb Parkway, eATLanta looks at Gunshow and Cook Hall, and Marie Let's Eat takes on Jeanne's House in Doraville.
· All Week in Reviews [-EATL-]