Some dishes, like the seared halibut with buttery asparagus sections and brilliant green spring peas ($24), exhibit great finesse and a delicate touch while others are clunky and awkward like the messy bowl of bacon-studded pork shoulder ($21) topped with an apple-arugula salad. Once the menu comes together, this social eatery has the potential become a draw for residents in its under-served section of Roswell.
[Some] of the dishes Meloy intently composes in front of his audience would benefit from some editing. The chef is obviously enamored with molecular gastronomy, but shows his inexperience with the techniques given his heavy-handed use of additives such as agar powder (often used as a vegetarian gelatin substitute). Not to say Modernist cuisine is inherently fussy, but each element should have a purpose and play well with the other ingredients.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: AJC's John Kessler has meals at Chat Patti and Sobban, Woblet Blog heads to the Makan pop-up, and Creative Loafing's cheap eats of the week are at Cook Out.
· All Week in Reviews [-EATL-]