Creative Loafing's Jennifer Zyman awards Kimball House three stars, noting that while some of the entrees and desserts need work, the oysters and bar service are first class:
If there is any testament to how far we have come as a cocktail town, Kimball House is it. There is no place else in Atlanta where you can find such an extensive and traditionally prepared absinthe menu and bartenders so well versed in everything drink. Even the servers open up like encyclopedias when helping you figure out which cocktail, on or off the menu, is right for you. How else would I have discovered how much I like the fruity and crisp Jack Rose, which Kimball House serves in a vintage tulip-shaped glass? I also learned it was a favorite of Ernest Hemingway. On one visit, I was reminded how alluring and mysterious Tiki drinks can be, thanks to the towering, maraschino cherry–topped lobotomy that is the Painkiller, a mix of Pusser's Navy Rum, pineapple, lime, coconut, orange, and Angostura bitters. Currently, I like my oysters with either the Mid Lime Crisis — a slightly salty and pithy drink made with Dulce Vida high-proof tequila, lime, preserved lime, grapefruit, and hops — or a beer from the short beer and wine list.
Behind a paywall, Jenny Turknett of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution gives Lusca at three-star rating. "Sometimes it doesn't make sense, until it just … does," according to Turknett:
The ever-changing menu, eschewing dish descriptions in favor of a component list, is designed for tasting and sharing, mixing and mingling. It screams, "trust me." And trust it I do. Lusca dares you to keep an open mind, consider your food and to dive into uncommon combinations or ingredients. The beauty here is that it does all of these things sans hubris. No shock value intended.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Friday Date night enjoyed Mexican fare and good fun at Bone Garden Cantina. Marie, Lets Eat! found standout vegetables at The Butcher The Baker. Fried Chicken Lips wasn't thrilled with the bar food at Blue Ribbon Grill. Foodie in Motion sampled a number of dishes at the Atlanta Street Food Festival. Looking for something healthy to feed your kids? My Little Foodies says you'll find it at True Food Kitchen. Atlanta Restaurant Blog didn't enjoy True Food as much. Better Half was hit and miss for Hot Dish Review. ATL Food Snob discovered cocktail Nirvana at Aviary.
· All Week in Reviews [-EATL-]