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John Kessler Gives The El Felix Two Stars

Your weekly roundup of Atlanta restaurant reviews.

The El Felix.
The El Felix.
Matthew Wong/Eater Atlanta

The Atlanta Journal-Constitution's John Kessler reviews The El Felixawarding Ford Fry's newest venture a "very good" rating of two out of four stars. Kessler says the restaurant offers a fine taste of Fry's native Texas:

The El Felix in Alpharetta's new Avalon complex is the latest from successful Atlanta restaurateur (and native Texan) Ford Fry. Though it's by far his most casual restaurant, it feels like the most heartfelt. The best cooking here happens inside that Venn diagram subset where chef-crafted integrity and sense of place intersect. You can admire the tender bite of a tamale or the spice-speckled rumble of crisp skin along a fat, juicy slice of chicken fajita. You also feel in your heart that the mounds of iceberg lettuce and shreds of yellow cheese flanking an order of finger-blistering puffy tacos provide the right touch. What you're tasting is the native-son affection with which Ford and his executive chef Kevin Maxey, also a Texan, created this food. I think they may be a bit too cheffy at times and perhaps a bit beholden to tradition at other times, but they go at this menu with smarts and soul.

THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Atlanta Restaurant Blog says Moderna in Sandy Springs is a club unsuccessfully masquerading as a restaurant. Burgers, Barbecue and Everything Else advises to pass on the soup and dumplings, and dig into the entrees and pastries at Chef Liu. Friday Date Night thinks Marietta's Douceur de France is the perfect place for a lunch date. Eat It, Atlanta plans on returning to Mamak Malaysian Kitchen. Crush Crave loves the old-school comfort food at The Busy Bee Cafe. Fried Chicken Lips says Cooks & Soldiers is better than expected.

The El Felix

1130 Avalon Blvd, Alpharetta, GA 30009 (678) 205-0188 Visit Website

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