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Corby Kummer Awards Little Bacch Three Stars

It's your weekly roundup of Atlanta restaurant reviews.

Andrew Thomas Lee

Corby Kummer reviews Little Bacch for Atlanta Magazineawarding the small Westside Provisions District restaurant an "excellent" rating of three out of four stars. Kummer says chef Joe Schafer gets the staples right:

The classic food makes you sigh for dishes you haven't had in forever because you know that most of the time the preparation will be heavy and horrid. But here, oysters Rockefeller, cheese soufflé, and New York strip with bordelaise are made with such close attention to sourcing and with such careful, uncluttered technique that you start to pine for the days when food like this was served nightly by old-line clubs—even if you probably couldn't afford them and they wouldn't let you in anyway.

Wyatt Williams — or is that Rhett Butler — reviews The Southern Gentleman for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Williams isn't impressed, and he gives the restaurant a "fair" rating of zero out of four stars:

If, having read my gustatory evaluations for many sentences now, you feel a bit overwhelmed by an unexamined version of Southern culture that is both painfully cliché and deeply uninteresting, then you know a little of what it is like to eat at the Southern Gentleman. It is an establishment that treats Southern culinary history like a box of little bric-a-brac to be played with, only the playing isn't very fun. It makes me bored with a place and cuisine that I would rather love.

THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Atlanta Food Critic has a wonderful time at Wisteria. Fried Chicken Lips isn't rushing back to Minero. Burgers, Barbecue & Everything Else says you should go to Staplehouse.

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