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John Kessler Gives Atlas Three Stars

Your weekly roundup of Atlanta restaurant reviews.

Brian Gassel

Atlanta Journal-Constitution critic John Kessler reviews Atlasawarding the St. Regis Hotel restaurant an excellent rating of three stars. Kessler says it finds much success by going against today's dining trends:

Venison loin from a few weeks ago has given way to a fat little venison chop, but it gets the same vibrant plum-cherry puree, barley porridge and a whole, if petite, roasted parsnip. Grossman wants you to use your knife, take a bit of this and swipe it in a bit of that. It's the anti-small plate. ... A lot of restaurants grab your attention with culinary pyrotechnics, intense flavors and over-the-top formats. Atlas reminds us of that rarest of culinary ideals: subtlety.

THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Atlanta INtown's Art Huckabee says Rumi's Kitchen is consistently great. Hot Dish Review thinks Grain is a cocktail destination in Midtown. Atlanta Restaurant Blog is impressed with what Colletta has to offer in Avalon. Bella Vivere loves the food and decor at LottaFrutta, but isn't a fan of the service. Fried Chicken Lips probably wouldn't return to Superica. Eat It, Atlanta says the Sichuan cuisine at Tasty China is still on point. Burgers, Barbecue and Everything Else likes the Original Diner Burger at The Albert. Weekend Eats ATL can't find a bad dish or drink at Bocado.