Mixed Reviews for Storico Fresco, Buckhead’s Italian Market-Restaurant Combo

Atlanta Journal-Constitution critic Wyatt Williams reviews Storico Fresco Alimentari e Ristorante, the combination Italian market and restaurant in Buckhead. Williams awards three out of four stars and says the whole venture “feels like a dream”:

Funny enough, the dining room at Storico reminds me most of the early days of Antico Pizza. Like Giovanni Di Palma’s hit pizzeria, Storico hits the balance of eating practically inside the controlled chaos of a kitchen. The menu’s more about tradition and ingredients than a particular chef. I hope this is the beginning of an Atlanta trend. This city has enough places with 30-foot ceilings and 300 seats.

Atlanta Magazine critic Corby Kummer, on the other hand, isn’t as impressed with Storico Fresco. Kummer awards a “good” rating of one out of four stars, declaring the restaurant part of the concept needs to catch up to the market:

But while Storico Fresco is a brilliant store, it’s not much of a restaurant. ... What will make Storico Fresco soar as high as the spectacular, mile-high timballo—a savory pie with a sweet-salt crust and stacked-high layers of cheese-filled tortelloni, a dish usually reserved for Christmas and special occasions—is to embrace the store and the cases and bring them to the tables. When I convinced a server to bring us a taste of the royal-looking timballo tempting us from the case, or to serve us a pleated, marvelously black-crusted individual burnt ricotta pie even though it wasn’t on the menu, I thought I was in Italy. Indeed, Patrick told me that the next version of the menu will offer many of the takeout dishes, including that burnt ricotta pie. I’ll hope for a wide selection of the imported cured meats and the several kinds of lasagna. And maybe, maybe the timballo. Now that will be worth pulling up a chair for.

THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: The AJC’s Elizabeth Lenhard says Bombay Brasserie is an excellent, flexible Indian option in Roswell. Creative Loafing’s Angela Hansberger thinks of Midtown’s 5Church as more of a tourist spot, but believes that could change. Fried Chicken Lips says Double Zero’s move to Emory Village has resulted in a successful revamp. Hunger Pangs in Atlanta says Uncle Jack’s Meat House is a hit, albeit expensive, in Duluth.

• All Week in Reviews [EATL]