clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

Filed under:

Corby Kummer Wants to See Adam Evans's Vision at Brezza Cucina

It's your weekly roundup of Atlanta restaurant reviews

Brezza Cucina/Facebook

Atlanta Magazine's Corby Kummer reviews Brezza Cucinaawarding the Ponce City Market Restaurant a "good" rating of one out of four stars. Kummer says the eatery would work better if Jonathan Waxman allowed chef Adam Evans to execute his own vision:

I'm happy to have reliable roast chicken available just a short walk from my new house, but I wonder how much more we could savor if Waxman let Evans loose and gave him the autonomy to design and personalize the menu. Atlanta has a history of greeting visiting celeb chefs with a loud meh. Evans's mentor Tom Colicchio, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Emeril Lagasse all noisily moved to town and quietly folded their tents within a few years of opening. They likely assumed that their names alone would be enough to bring in customers. With Evans at the helm, Waxman, who is opening a similar restaurant in San Francisco under the same name, has the chance to break that streak. Evans may not have the souls of California and Italy running through his hands, as Waxman does, but he understands seafood and brings a set of skills that are more frankly French and elegant than those of his boss. Which is to say, a united philosophy and menu will make Brezza its own genuinely interesting restaurant. Given the wait for and investment in Ponce City Market, I think we've got it coming.

At Creative Loafing, Angela Hansberger takes a first look at BeetleCat. Hansberger notes the restaurant offers two different experiences based on one's mood.

Inside, the restaurant's nautical décor reflects yet another chapter of Fry's life experiences, a trend that seems to be at the heart of most new restaurants he unveils. Rope wraps around columns, sails float from the ceiling, and the flooring resembles a yacht deck. A huge oyster bar anchors the space with comfy blue captain's chairs and a view of metal baskets filled with ice and fresh oysters. Toward the back of the restaurant, there is a large wood-burning oven for roasting fish and shellfish.

Wandering below deck, down a stairwell that always has some sea-inspired flick playing on the wall, feels like stepping back in time. If you grew up in the '70s or '80s, the kitschy décor will give you flashbacks: wood paneling, hooked rug art on the wall, a bar with a Formica-looking top, and shelves of board games.

THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Hot Dish Review says Bon Glaze Doughnuts is enjoying sweet success. Burgers, Barbecue & Everything Else likes the food, but hates the service and parking at Bartaco in Westside. Marie, Let's Eat! enjoys a Sunday lunch at Revival. Atlanta Food Critic says Arcadia, the new rooftop restaurant above Cameli's, is one of the coolest places in Little Five Points.