Evan Mah Says BeetleCat Is Proof Ford Fry Needs to Slow Down

Atlanta Magazine's Evan Mah reviews BeetleCat, local mega-restaurateur Ford Fry's latest opening in Inman Park. Mah isn't thrilled, giving the "little sister to The Optimist" a "not recommended" rating of zero out of four stars. Despite the consistent crowds flocking to BeetleCat, Mah says the restaurant is a clear sign Fry has overextended himself:

In Fry's hasty and indefatigable ascent to the top, Marcel signaled the first major misstep, raising the question of whether he had overextended himself. His latest-latest restaurant, Beetle­Cat, offers a stiff answer: yes. ... BeetleCat's popularity should come as no surprise. Cocktail-fueled crowds are standard when dining with Fry, whose interiors are never anything less than stunning. But at some point, you will need to eat—calories to balance the booze. This is where BeetleCat starts to sink.

Over at the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, Wyatt Williams reviews Hajime, the new Buckhead ramen shop from the owners of Umaido. Williams awards two out of four stars and says when Hajime is on its game, the ramen is tough to beat in this city:

So, let's get to the point: When Hajime is at its best, the ramen is very good, some of the best in Atlanta. When Hajime is not at its best, well, the ramen is still pretty good. ... There are so many variations, so many of those elements, that getting it all right can feel a little like a Goldilocks quest. Hajime rarely gets everything right all at the same time, but it gets enough right enough of the time, that I find myself continuing to go back.

THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Creative Loafing's Angela Hansberger takes a first look at Brush Sushi Izakaya. Marie, Let's Eat! says the arrival of Midwestern burger chain Culver's isn't worth celebrating. Fried Chicken Lips thinks L'Thai Organic Thai Cuisine & Wine Bar serves better-than-average Thai food for Atlanta. Atlanta Restaurant Blog says even with a new menu, Tabla is still an essential Indian spot in Midtown. Friday Date Night finally tries H&F Burger and says it's love at first bite.