Atlanta Magazine’s Corby Kummer reviews Drift Fish House, chef Doug Turbush’s third East Cobb restaurant. Kummer awards Drift a “good” rating of one out of four stars and says the kitchen is inconsistent, but there are signs of something great:
Drift, then, is for now a confounding restaurant. It has a chef-owner who knows how to tool his menu to what people will order, which perhaps isn’t necessarily what he wants to cook. When Turbush offered a well-priced, seldom-seen-in-the-suburbs skate-wing schnitzel, customers, to his disappointment, ignored it wholesale. That shouldn’t deter him, and Turbush should continue to tune every dish to the standouts like the wild salmon and lobster roll—dishes you’d have to travel far to beat. And to achieve the same thriving, chef-driven success that he reached at Seed, Turbush should fly with his skate-wing instincts and wait for his gangbusters crowds to get onboard.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s Bob Townsend takes a first look at Ba Bellies, the new Asian gastropub from the Nam Phuong team. Fried Chicken Lips says the relocated Taka Sushi & Passion doesn’t live up to the highs of the old Buckhead restaurant. Hot Dish Review enjoys the sushi rolls, noodles, and basil rolls at Thaicoon & Sushi Bar. Atlanta Restaurant Blog says chef Jon Allen’s new Southern fare at M572 is generating some buzz in Tucker.
• All Week in Reviews [EATL]