Atlanta Journal-Constitution food editor Ligaya Figueras assesses One Midtown Kitchen, the 15-year-old dining room from Concentrics Restaurants. In the two-star review, Figueras praises chef Matthew Weinstein’s creativity, but she says there are too many misses among the hits.
There’s certainly creativity happening in the kitchen right now as Weinstein and his team give a modern spin to recognizable dishes and aren’t afraid to call on global influences. You can witness that energy just by watching the kitchen — much more than the staff walking the floor (with the exception of an affable, animated fellow named Bob Bost, who has worked the host stand since day one), and you can experience it in the food that sometimes is on point and other times misses the mark you’d hope for at a place that charges upscale dining prices.
The gist, I think, is that it’s not enough for a menu to read well on paper, or for plating to make you do a double take. Looks alone don’t make a restaurant great.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Creative Loafing’s Beca Grimm says the seafood shines at Escobar, 2 Chainz’s new Castleberry Hill restaurant. Atlanta Magazine’s Jennifer Zyman recommends quesadillas and tacos from Las Quekas de la Abuela at Fiesta Plaza on Buford Highway. Atlanta’s Christiane Lauterbach has good things to say about The Federal, Cast Iron, Poor Hendrix, and Suzy Siu’s Baos. Fried Chicken Lips likes the revamped concept at The Tavern at Atlas. Roamilicious enjoys brunch from angry chef Ron Eyester at Southern Bistro. The Cardigan Kitchen says Yumbii’s evolution from food truck to fast-casual taqueria is a success. Hot Dish Review finds a good, healthy brunch at True Food Kitchen.
• All Week in Reviews [EATL]