Atlanta Magazine critic Jennifer Zyman reviews Brush Sushi Izakaya, chef Jason Liang’s Japanese restaurant in downtown Decatur. Awarding a “very good” rating of two out of four stars, Zyman declares the omakase is where Liang’s talent shines, but the rest of the menu needs work:
Liang’s omakase started with four otsumami, or snacks, ranging from crowd-pleasing duck wrapped in scallions to more acquired tastes, like lightly grilled cod sperm dressed with ponzu sauce. Then came the sashimi course, where the winner was house-smoked Spanish mackerel. Nigiri was next, and unfortunately the rice, which is half the battle when it comes to sushi, was too salty. Still, I marveled at how with a few turns of his knife, Liang manipulated a piece of horse mackerel skin into an abstract of silver stripes. Miso soup with baby clams capped the savory portion of the meal. ... If this were it, Brush would be a four-star restaurant, once the rice was remedied. But it’s an izakaya, remember? The à la carte menu is deep. So there are, unsurprisingly, items on it that you should avoid.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Hot Dish Review has a satisfying meal at Cast Iron in Old Fourth Ward. Fried Chicken Lips says Pleasant BBQ Garden is worth the drive to Duluth for solid Cantonese fare.
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