Atlanta Magazine critic Jennifer Zyman reviews The Federal, Shaun Doty’s new bistro-steakhouse combo in Midtown. Zyman awards an “excellent” rating of three out of four stars and says Doty’s decision to get back in the kitchen is a win for Atlanta.
Shaun Doty is back in the kitchen again, and the only question you might have after dining at the Federal is, “What took so long?” We’re all the beneficiaries of the time he spent coming up with surefire moneymakers Yeah Burger and Bantam and Biddy, but opening the Federal last November has been his greatest gift yet—to Atlanta and, perhaps, to himself. ... So is it a bistro or is it a steakhouse? It’s both. “I’m inspired by Belgian and French bistro culture and I pay homage to that, but at the end of the day, I’m from Oklahoma,” Doty tells me on the phone. “We’re always going to be firmly American in what we do.” Overall, the menu is a mashup of French, Belgian, Southern, and whatever other cuisine has personal meaning for him.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Atlanta Magazine’s Christiane Lauterbach has good things to say about Bon Ton, Mediterrana, 9292 Korean BBQ, and Sankalp. Creative Loafing’s Sucheta Rawal takes a first look at Jai Ho Indian Restaurant & Bar. Fried Chicken Lips says growing pains are inevitable, but Food Terminal’s Malaysian menu is a hit. Roamilicious believes The Stone Grill is Korean barbecue at its best.
• All Week in Reviews [EATL]