Duluth’s 9292 Korean BBQ Nabs Two Stars From the AJC

Atlanta Journal-Constitution critic Wyatt Williams reviews 9292 Korean BBQ, awarding the Duluth restaurant a “very good” rating of two out of four stars. Williams says 9292 covers the Korean barbecue bases, but the restaurant’s success expands beyond grilled meats.

A meal like this isn’t meant to be inhaled all at once, which is why your server cooks each selection of meat individually on the grill, so that the meal stretches on into four-, five-, or six-course range. Sip on a bottle of easy-drinking Kloud beer. Pause to enjoy the bright crunchy pleasure of pickled daikon radish. Look around at all of the other tables loaded up with plates. Heck, Instagram a shot or two.

The highlight for you may be the kalbi, a cut of deboned short ribs, scored and marinated for tenderness. The flavors, both salty and sweet, that dominate the marinade are complemented by the smoky touch of charcoal that crisps them on the grill. ... For me, though, the surprise highlight at 9292 wasn’t even the meat at all. For a couple of the special combos, after all those rich meats, 9292 delivers a flat cast-iron skillet filled with a thin layer of fried rice seemingly coated in radish kimchi. Placed atop the charcoal, the skillet crisps the rice into a caramelized crust, the way a paella pan develops a thick socarrat at the base. It is the spiciest bite you’ll have at 9292, the kind of thing that’s worth waiting for.

THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: Burgers, Barbecue & Everything Else recommends the pulled pork and brisket at Jim’s Smokin’ Que in Blairsville. Hot Dish Review likes the avocado toast but is cool on the egg mcmuff at 8 Arm. The Cardigan Kitchen has good things to say about Sweet Auburn Barbecue, Takorea, Mediterranea, and Food Terminal. Friday Date Night says the Mediterranean fare and ambiance are both improved at Jerusalem Bakery’s new home in Marietta.

• All Week in Reviews [EATL]