Creative Loafing’s Hilary Cadigan takes a first look at the relocated Bacchanalia, which left Westside Provisions District and moved into its new home in the neighborhood last month. Cadigan says that, nearly a quarter-century after first opening in Buckhead, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison’s fine-dining institution remains relevant.
Pricy though it is, Bacchanalia still feels like a worthy once-in-awhile splurge; the kind of start-to-finish fine dining experience that evokes times gone by but still feels fresh. And I mean fresh in the most literal sense. Though the word has all but lost its meaning, and farm-to-table seems today little more than an irritating tagline, we’re talking the kind of fresh where you can literally look out the window and see the plot of earth on which your dill was grown and picked. That kind of fresh keeps us coming back for more.
THE ELSEWHERE AND THE BLOGS: The Cardigan Kitchen is a big fan of the new doughnut-centric brunch at BeetleCat. Fried Chicken Lips doesn’t find much to like at Whiskey Bird, the new pan-Asian restaurant in the former Timone’s space.
• All Week in Reviews [EATL]