Marietta restaurant Spring has landed at No. 7 on Bon Appetit’s just-released list of America’s best new restaurants for 2017. BA restaurant editor Andrew Knowlton praises the restaurant, which chef Brian So opened in April 2016, for its simple, but exciting cuisine.
But what clearly kept bringing me back was So’s wickedly focused French technique-driven dishes. It’s not challenging food and, on the surface, not the most innovative stuff I ate this year. But it was some of the best. The shrimp bisque, as silky and smooth as any version I’ve tasted, was easily one of the most memorable soups I’ve ever had. My father and I fought over the smallest dollop of beurre blanc sauce long after the perfectly pan-seared grouper had been devoured. I wish I could take [Jacques] Pepin and [Julia] Child to Spring just to see their faces after a spoonful of the dark chocolate mousse with cocoa crumble.
The national praise follows glowing reviews from local critics. Wyatt Williams of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution awarded three out of four stars last November. Like Knowlton, Williams found simple dishes but claimed, “I’ve never once been bored by my meals at Spring.” Atlanta Magazine’s Jennifer Zyman also awarded three out of four stars in January and noted So’s cooking was drawing ITP diners and their high standards to the northern suburb.